Introduction
As soon as you hit your 30s, it can feel like everything around you suddenly starts targeting ageing. Anti-wrinkle creams, facials, supplements and cosmetic procedures all promise to keep your skin looking younger for longer.
Collagen has become one of the biggest targets of the anti-ageing industry. It is the most abundant structural protein in our skin and plays an important role in its strength and structure. So the premise behind collagen supplements initially makes sense: if we lose collagen as we age, could consuming more of it help replace what we're losing?
Gummies, powders and drinks containing collagen all promise firmer, more hydrated skin and fewer wrinkles. But does the collagen we consume actually change the structure — or appearance — of our skin?
What is Collagen?
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, accounting for around 30% of our total protein. It is made up of amino acids arranged into a characteristic triple-helix structure, which gives connective tissues their tensile strength.
In the skin, collagen fibres form a dense network within the dermis, providing much of its underlying strength and structure. Other components have different roles: hyaluronic acid is particularly important for retaining water and keeping the skin hydrated, while elastin allows the skin to stretch and return to its original shape.
As we age, collagen production decreases by around 1–1.5% per year after the age of 30. However, collagen loss is only one part of skin ageing. UV exposure, hormonal changes — particularly around the menopause — and smoking can all contribute to changes in the structure and appearance of our skin.
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What happens when you consume collagen?
Like other dietary proteins, collagen is broken down in the gut into amino acids and smaller peptides. These are absorbed into the bloodstream and can subsequently be used throughout the body.
Some collagen-derived peptides can survive digestion and enter the circulation. Lab studies suggest that certain peptides may act as signals to cells responsible for collagen production and potentially stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production.
However, evidence that something happens in cells in a laboratory doesn't necessarily mean it will produce a noticeable change in someone's skin. To answer that question, we need to look at clinical trials.
What does the evidence show?
A 2026 systematic review and meta-analysis combined the results of 35 randomised controlled trials involving 2,534 participants taking oral collagen supplements.
Overall, collagen supplementation was associated with improvements in skin hydration and elasticity, as well as reduced transepidermal water loss — a measure of how effectively the skin retains water. These effects appeared to depend more on how long collagen was taken than on the dose, with improvements in elasticity and skin-barrier function generally requiring at least 12 weeks.
However, when the researchers looked at structural signs of skin ageing, the results were much less convincing. They found no robust evidence that collagen supplementation improved wrinkles, skin roughness or dermal density. This distinction is important. A supplement improving how hydrated your skin is isn't necessarily the same as it reversing skin ageing or making wrinkles disappear.
Collagen supplements aren't all the same. Most studies have investigated hydrolysed collagen or collagen peptides, with collagen derived from bovine, porcine or marine sources. At present, there isn't enough evidence to confidently say that one source of collagen is better for your skin than another.
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So is it worth taking collagen for your skin?
The evidence isn't strong enough to say that collagen supplements can reverse skin ageing or reliably reduce wrinkles. There is some evidence that taking collagen peptides for around 12 weeks or longer may modestly improve skin hydration, elasticity and the skin's ability to retain water. So collagen probably shouldn't be thought of as a shortcut to younger-looking skin. If you enjoy taking it and can afford it, there may be modest benefits to skin hydration and elasticity, but expectations should be realistic.
More importantly, collagen supplements shouldn't distract from the factors we already know have a major influence on how our skin ages. Limiting excessive UV exposure and avoiding smoking have much stronger evidence behind them than relying on a daily scoop of collagen powder.
Collagen supplements may have a role in your skincare routine, but based on the evidence we have today, they're unlikely to be doing the heavy lifting.
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